Asian Designers in the Resort 2022 Fashion Shows

The season of resort collections has arrived again. Resort shows tend to be from May to June. Though I am not a seasoned fashion connoisseur, I do think runway shows are an incredible way to notice the thought a designer puts into the show—from the clothing to the sets. I’ve always been interested in fashion as a child, but as I’ve grown older I realized that the relationship between the designer’s story and the clothing pieces themselves is so interesting to unravel and connect.

A resort collection, also called a cruise collection, is essentially a pre-collection after the Fall/Winter clothes have gone on sale before the Spring/Summer clothes have been delivered to the stores. Thus, the clothing will be available from November to April the following year. These collections are intended for people to bring on vacations. It normally included breezy fabrics, statement bathing suits, and huge sun hats. However, resort collections are not limited to this and can sometimes include warmer clothing to accommodate various needs. Especially because, in the beginning, cruise collections were bought by the elite in preparation for their end-of-year holidays, thus requiring parkas and coats. Furthermore, those in Arab and Russian markets will require clothing to fit their climate and temperatures.

This article will explore three Asian designers and their Resort 2022 collections: Sandy Liang, Anna Sui, and Prabal Gurung.

Sandy Liang

Sandy Liang is a New-York born and raised fashion designer who uses her Chinese roots as inspiration for her creations. She is known for her asymmetrical designs and tomboy-esque style. In an interview with the South China Morning Post, she revealed that she designs about her own life. In her debut collection, she cast her grandmother and shot the collection in Chinatown about her Chinese heritage. To her, fashion is exciting, fast-paced, and fascinating.

Her resort collection has many outerwear pieces which are her signature. A big word that is used to describe her is reinvention and in this collection, she does that by going against the implied innocence that comes with using a uniform/school-girl aesthetic. She was inspired by Devon Aoki, Sofia Coppola, Ashley Olsen, and Gwyneth Paltrow as Margot Tenenbaum but more specifically, the clothing that was popular two decades ago—the 90s. The collection has both pieces that are a nod to a classic school uniform but also plenty of princess dresses, which she has experimented with in the past. Looking through the collection, the reimagination of the rebellious nature of women is on par with the themes in music this year. All 23 looks are paired with loafers, which is a unique way of bringing all the looks together whilst sticking to the theme.

There are 23 looks in total and here are some of my favourite ones:

Look 4

This look features pleats, an obvious element of the schoolgirl uniform that we are familiar with. I love the cleanness - a clear sign of mastery in tailoring. The large but narrow armholes lend a sense of rebellion as well. I just really love this look—the use of the almost tuxedo-like fabric provides a level of sophistication that ties in the whole look together.

Look 5

The first thought that came to mind when I saw this look was “Best Dressed Ashley would love this outfit.” In true Best Dressed Ashley fashion, I love the juxtaposition of the shirt and the sweater vest—especially with the sleeve and chest cut-outs. I like that this look almost depicts the idea of limitation or restriction on one’s openness for exploration. The gold heart necklace is so cute too and reminds me of the Tiffany & Co. necklace that Elle Woods wears in Legally Blonde.

Look 7

This is definitely an out-of-the-box one but I adore the top. The sheer trim gives a faux modest appearance and I’m obsessed with the balloon sleeves. The unique silhouette coupled with the floral print skirt is just so cool - if I saw someone wearing this IRL, I would just think that they are the it-girl because they definitely are.

Look 10

I love a monochromatic outfit and this is definitely one for the books. I’ve definitely been noticing a rise in popularity of the color brown, especially around mid-last year. I love that both traditionally feminine and masculine elements are demonstrated in this look through the floral knee-high dress with the brown trousers. The incorporation of balloon sleeves makes my heart soar and it balances out the unstructured trousers really well.

Look 12

This look ties in the gray color that has been used in the previous looks really well through the polo shirt that is tucked under the leather pinafore. Leather is something she uses a few times (see: Look 13), but I found that the long pinafore just brought a level of edginess to an otherwise traditionally feminine piece of clothing.

Look 23

This is the last look of the collection and also contrasts the previous look through the use of pastel colors though the idea is very similar with the t-shirt underneath the dress. I love the shiny, almost silky material with the oversized pearl necklace. I think it was a great way to end the collection.

Look 17

It is definitely a show-stopper with the large dress made with organza. Sandy Liang’s use of this thin and flimsy material to create a masterpiece just screams talent.

Look 18

There are a handful of red looks in this collection but I loved the simplicity of this one. The dress has a floral print that is used in the other looks as well though in different colors. I love the detail that was brought through the gathering of fabric in two parts of the dress. Further, the incorporation of the pearl accessories just adds a bit of elegance to otherwise a youthful summer dress (possibly to refer to the act of growing older).

Anna Sui

Anna Sui was born to two Chinese immigrant parents and was raised in Detroit. Being in fashion and studying at Parsons Institute of Design was a childhood dream for her. Her debut clothing line was released in 1991 and since then, she has over 50 boutiques in eight countries and her products are sold in 300 stores in over 30 countries. Time Magazine named her among the five top designers of the decade. Rock music was a huge inspiration to her when fashion designing but she has seen incorporated other designs.

Sui loves art and history which is very much seen in her resort collection. She was heavily inspired by the 1921 film Enchantment: A Taming of the Shrew Retelling which later led to her researching the Wiener Werkstätte furniture designer Joseph Urban. This collection is a reimagination of Urban’s approach to aesthetics and design. There is a wide variety of fabrics used as well. Her nieces provided a lot of support which helps her designs appeal to both younger and older audiences. They definitely brought a new level of modernity that will intrigue Gen-Z fashion enthusiasts.

Jeannie and Isabelle are two of Sui’s nieces who contributed to the collection: The look book was shot by Jeannie and Isabelle designed the Werkstätte-inspired borders and graphic elements. All the looks were accessorized with platform shoes and the jewelry was designed by Bobbie Robbins.

There are 34 looks in total and here are some of my favourite ones:

Look 6

Sage green has been very popular this year in fashion but I love how Sui uses a similar color story throughout the whole look which allows for the different patterns to still look cohesive and not too bold. Florals are a big motif in this collection and this look is no different.

Look 34

This is the highlight of the collection as it was an ode to Cher Horowitz from the film Clueless, who wears the yellow mini-suit. The red tweed brought a modern twist to an otherwise iconic look. Sui’s signature style definitely shows through with the accessories. This look tied in the floral elements seen throughout the collection perfectly through the floral design in the black shirt worn underneath.

Look 8

This look also has florals but with a gothic twist brought in with the lace trim at the edges of the sleeves and neckline. The pastel purple color in the print brings a bit of brightness as well though keeping with the edginess that many associate with Anna Sui’s clothing.

Look 28

I’ve been very drawn to the color teal recently and so I was immediately captivated. I love the corset top with the matching pants and bag. The pairing of the net-like long-sleeve top underneath the corset definitely helped in breaking up the teal and thus, made it less intimidating.

Look 12

In contrast to Look 13, this outfit reminds me of something a modern e-girl would wear with the sheerness of the mid-length dress with the tights and platform boots. I love the floral pattern in this look in particular that brings in lightness and freshness to the look.

Look 13

This matching two-piece set has some ruched detailing that brings a lot of texture and edge to a very youthful print. As seen throughout the collection, the use of platform boots and black tights is a nod to Sui’s signature of incorporating a bit of boldness to her looks.

Look 15

A lot of the collection features dresses but this one stood out to me the most. I love the use of white lace paired with a bit of structure in both the top and the skirt which flares out in the most flattering way. The long sleeves also give a bit of elegance which contrasts the cutouts in the fabric’s design. Also, the low round neckline reminds of regalness and royalty.

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung is a Nepalese-American fashion designer who was born in Singapore and is currently based in New York. His clothing has been worn by Hollywood’s biggest names and more recently, has been worn by Vice-President Kamala Harris. He is also known for bringing awareness to social issues and for the Shikshya Foundation Nepal, which was established in 2011 to provide education to underprivileged children. His activism and advocacy towards representation and inclusivity also play a large role in his resort collection.

The collection is an ode to liberation with the inspiration for it stemming from the young people he met at rallies and marches fighting against Asian discrimination early this year, specifically the freedom and body positivity he saw. The collection was shot at Chinatown in NYC and was produced by an all-women crew. Gurung is known for bringing in many facets into a collection, in this case, he comments on the political climate while elaborating on the significance of Chinatown that is often forgotten. He stated that he wanted to celebrate “the grit and character [...] in neighbourhoods like Chinatown.”

The clothing pieces in conjunction with the background of Chinatown are vibrant and exuberant. There are party looks starting from two-piece sets to red carpet glam looks with midriff cut-outs and thigh-high slits. The pantsuits sprinkled in show Gurung’s strength in tailoring and it brings a lot of structure to the overall collection.

There are 35 looks in total and here are some of my favourite ones:

Look 3

One of the two-piece sets that were in the collection. I love the shade of pink that was used and the flare on the trousers with the oversized belt is chef's kiss - I need this entire outfit!

Look 8

I just had to include this one as I am obsessed with the fringe on the pink dress. It definitely relates to the idea of partying and celebration that he was inspired by because of the movement that fringe tends to bring in clothing.

Look 14

This is one of the looks I chose that features the midriff cut-outs that bring playfulness to the look. The flowy skirt and the oversized flower on the chest are fun and with this vibrant pink color, I think it just screams summer.

Look 19

The tailoring on the bustier is similar to a corset, which has been all the rage the past year. I love the contrast it has when matched with the lace material for the skirt. It definitely brings a different level of elegance that is perfect for this collection.

Look 35

Like a moth to a flame, I am a girl with her sun in Sagittarius who adores this sequined dress. Similar to the previous look, it also has a midriff cut-out. The way the sequins reflect the light is so gorgeous - I love that he ended the lookbook with this one.

Look 23

Last one, but these two dresses remind me of a renaissance painting. I love the movement of the fabric and how from afar, the pattern in the fabric is quite unclear - a reflection of the uncertainty of life. This is a very minor detail but I love that one model is wearing the blue dress, with pink heels while the other wears the pink dress with blue heels. It just ties the looks together in a subtle yet effective way.

Look 30

Despite the significance of the blue pantsuit, I love this one more. It definitely gives me “have to be at a meeting at 4, meeting the girls for happy hour at 5” energy. The slight shimmer on the lapels brings a level of playfulness as well as the pink flower connected to the choker.